Build Your Perfect
Bioactive Terrarium

Yes, but much less frequently! You should still wipe down the glass, provide fresh water, and spot-clean large waste. However, the 'clean-up crew' handles the microscopic waste, meaning you rarely (if ever) need to replace the substrate.

We recommend letting a new bioactive terrarium cycle for 4 to 6 weeks before introducing your main pet. This gives the plants time to root and allows the clean-up crew to establish a stable population.

A crash in the microfauna population usually points to a moisture or food issue. You can re-seed the tank with a new culture. Always ensure there is enough leaf litter and humidity for them to thrive.

A small mold bloom is completely normal during the initial 'cycling' phase of a new setup. Springtails are your first line of defense; they eat mold and fungus. To prevent severe outbreaks, ensure you have proper cross-ventilation and avoid over-saturating the substrate.

The ideal substrate depends on your animal's humidity needs. Tropical setups thrive on ABG mix (tree fern fiber, orchid bark, charcoal, sphagnum moss, and peat). Arid setups require a sandy, well-draining soil mix that holds burrows without trapping excess moisture.

For tropical or high-humidity enclosures that require heavy misting, a drainage layer (using LECA or Matala matting) is crucial. It prevents the soil from waterlogging, which can cause root rot in live plants and drown your clean-up crew.

Yes, they form the backbone of a healthy bioactive ecosystem! Springtails control mold and fungus, while isopods consume larger decaying matter like fallen leaves and animal waste. You can also add earthworms or millipedes depending on the tank size.